How to find a leaking tire valve along with a replacement. This is a very commonly overlooked area when having a leak in a tire, sometimes these can form a leak with age either from dirt or a damaged seal or it can be faulty from new. I had a small leak after having working done on my wheels and it was just an easy Schrader valve replacement. #tire #autorepair
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-Schrader valve tool
-new Schrader valve
-spray bottle with a soap and water mixture
-air compressor
-tire gauge
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:28 Metal vs Plastic Caps
00:51 Valve Stem Assembly
01:20 Schrader Valve Removal
02:05 Close-up of the Valve
02:41 Testing for a Leak
03:05 Valve Repair & Replacement
04:28 Valve Stem Cleaning
Procedure:
Remove the valve cap. The cap is important as it protects the valve and keeps any dirt out which may shorten its life or causing issues. This wheel has a metal cap, however plastic caps are the most common. Be careful with metal-type caps, I’ve ran into issues in the past where they’ll corrode and seize onto the valve stem.
The Schrader valve casing can be rubber or solid, but the valve inside is the same. The only difference with the valve is temperature rating which would be used in a commercial application such as something with a heavy load and extensive driving. Here I have the most common form found on vehicles, the casing is installed from the inside when the bead is broken or when the tire has been removed and is pulled outwards. The groove in the bottom is what clips into place on either the aluminum or steel wheels.
For removing the valve, you’ll have a valve removal tool. Align the tool bit, you’ll feel it clip in, then turn counterclockwise to remove.
Once removed, pull it out with your fingers. If there’s air pressure in the tire it’ll usually push out on its own so be mindful of that.
The red ring on the outside is the outer seal that goes against the casing. You can also see the threaded portion towards the top. The center spring loaded portion is the valve, when the air chuck is put into place, it’ll push on the center portion allowing in air. At the bottom of the center portion that faces the inside of the tire, there is another seal on this surface too.
As for the outer casing, this is just a shell to hold the valve. It’s hollow in the center, there is a threaded portion on the inner-outer side for the valve.
Using a spray bottle or a bottle of a soap and water mixture, apply it to the valve. This can be dish soap, hand wash soap, carwash soap, something which allows bubbling. If the valve is leaking, you’ll automatically see bubbling.
Sometimes it’s as simple as tightening the valve if it’s loose.
If that’s not the case, then a replacement is needed. You can purchase replacements on their own or just get a new valve stem and swap over the internal component. What I do, if I’m taking a wheel in to get a tire replaced, the shop will install the new valve stem as the rubber can dry out and crack with age. So I’ll remove the valve and keep it as a spare. If I’m in a pinch, I’ll have a couple on hand.
This is an older model, this wheel is from the 80s and I believe it’s the original tire. While the valve style has changed, they still share the same thread and sealing surface.
Taking the new valve, drop it into place and then tighten. It just needs to be snugged up.
Next is pumping up the tire to the correct PSI. As a generic rating for an automotive tire application, this is 32 psi. Check this valve to ensure it’s not leaking with the soap and water mixture. When no bubbling is confirmed, you’re officially done. Before reinstalling the cap, give the valve a flick to remove any water.
As for the pointed end of the Schrader valve tool, this is used to clean the steam when the valve is removed. Using the steam as an example, push this inside the hole with the valve removed and rotated. Any debris inside may cause issues where the tire won’t pump up properly or become logged in the seal causing a leak. It’s best to do this with pressure still in the tire so it’ll push out the debris. Just be careful not to damage the inner threads.
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