This helpful step-by-step video shows how to replace a master cylinder, including the steps for bench bleeding a master cylinder, to help you maintain a healthy, functioning braking system in your vehicle. Symptoms of a bad master cylinder include a brake pedal that sinks to the floor or has no pressure, the brakes failing to activate when the pedal is depressed, or brake fluid that is black or brown. A failing brake master cylinder can put you and others in danger by compromising your vehicle’s brakes, and it should be inspected and replaced as soon as possible. If you are wondering about the cost of a master cylinder that will fit your vehicle, or if you have other questions about your car, truck, or SUV, the Parts Professionals at your local O’Reilly Auto Parts are ready to help you. You can also shop for the parts you need to perform your brake repairs, including a master cylinder bleeding kit, brake fluid, and a master cylinder for your brakes.
Supplies Needed for This Job:
0:00 Welcome Back
0:35 Brake Tips
0:50 Prep the Vehicle
0:58 Relieve Vacuum Pressure
1:15 Remove the Master Cylinder
1:49 Anti-Lock Brake Tips
2:09 Clean the Mounting Surface
2:18 Bench Bleeding
2:57 Install the New Master Cylinder
3:24 Bleeding Brakes
3:28 Test Your Brakes
One of the most important components of the braking system is the brake master cylinder, which pressurizes hydraulic fluid to be sent to your vehicle’s calipers and wheel cylinders. If you notice a lack of brake system pressure, brown or black brake fluid, leaks near the master cylinder, or a brake pedal that slowly drops all the way to the floor, your car, truck, or SUV’s brake master cylinder may be failing. A damaged, leaking, or faulty master cylinder is a dangerous problem, and should be repaired before the braking system is safe while driving. This detailed video can help you perform a brake master cylinder replacement and you maintain your car, truck, or SUV’s brakes.
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Transcript:
Chock your wheels and set the parking brake. Pop the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Set it aside someplace where it isn’t touching metal.
You’ll need to relieve the vacuum pressure that exists in the system so you can disconnect the vacuum line and separate the master cylinder from the booster.
To do this, pump your brake pedal a few times with the engine off.
Once the pedal firms up, you’re good to go.
Locate your master cylinder.
Now is a good time to wipe down the area before opening up the brake system.
Leave the cap on and remove the master cylinder from the booster.
There’s no need to remove the fluid.
Remove the electrical connector leading to the brake fluid reservoir.
This can be done by hand.
Remove the clip that secures the connector and push the tab to release it.
Unscrew the mounting nuts with your ratchet and socket... and use the proper brake line flare wrench to disconnect the brake lines.
Put some shop towels in place and hold your fingers over the brake lines as you remove the master cylinder from the vehicle to make sure no brake fluid drips on anything.
Once you’ve removed the master cylinder, set it in your drain pan to allow any remaining fluid to drain.