How and why to replace a low car battery with a more powerful one
1) 00:00 Intro
2) 00:26 Compatible Car Battery
3) 01:27 Lubex Longlife MV 74Ah
4) 02:05 How to Adapt the Support
5) 03:52 Car Battery Assembly
6) 04:33 Voltage check
7) 05:13 First Start
There are various ways to save on the use and maintenance of means of locomotion, but often influenced by uncontrollable external variables such as wars or signs between producers or a bad day for the mechanic; therefore doing some routine maintenance work in total autonomy can be a valid way to save and maybe even a nice pastime for those who are familiar or intend to try their hand at a bit of DIY.
For example, waiting for the battery model exactly identical to the standard one to be on offer when it needs to be replaced is not always probable; therefore adapting one on offer, perhaps with a greater capacity, could be a good compromise, but before proceeding you must make sure that it has the positive pole on the same side as the original, that the dimensions are compatible with the compartment and that the amperage is not excessively greater than that of the original battery, because otherwise the cables could be short or even if it enters the compartment, but too high to close the hood or an excessive amperage could tire the alternator or burn the electrical system or electronic components.
To remove the battery, first disconnect the negative pole terminal and then the positive pole terminal, in order to reduce the likelihood of a short circuit between the exposed metal parts of the car and the positive pole.
The battery that I currently found on offer adaptable to an old Ford with a 1400 tdci diesel engine is a 74Ah and 640A starting Lube MV Longlife. The factory fitted battery was about 60Ah and much smaller in size; in fact the new battery, even if entering the compartment, is too high for the fixing bracket, so it will be necessary to find a trick to be able to fix it properly. Some car models provide for a fastening to the base of the battery which is therefore more versatile.
The fixing rod is too high to be fixed to the stud with the nut; therefore by means of a joint nut and a screw I extend the stud bolt in such a way as to be able to adequately fix the bracket with a nut, obviously it would have been better to use a given joint per side in such a way as to keep the fixing bar as horizontal as possible , but I didn't have another one available.
This type of sealed car battery is maintenance-free, but if the open circuit voltage, with the vehicle stationary and with no loads applied, is less than 12.4 volts, a refresh charge must be carried out preferably by applying a constant current equal to one tenth of the capacity. rated for about 5/6 hours, using suitable chargers on the market or a DIY one like that of a previous video, see link at the top right.
I screw the screw to the joint data and tighten all the data to fix the battery support bracket,
even if the bracket is not perfectly aligned, the battery appears to be secure.
I reconnect the respective terminals first the positive pole and then the negative pole, that is, in the reverse order to the disassembly sequence, for the reasons already mentioned.
I tighten the nuts of the clamps, but without exaggerating with force.
Push and snap back the plastic cover of the positive pole.
I check the voltage at the poles with the car with a digital multimeter, even if there are loads applied by the electronic parts.
The voltage of 12.78 volts detected indicates an excellent condition of the battery.
To make the crook less evident and to keep rust away, I apply a few brushstrokes in black.
I try to start.
I check the voltage at the poles with the engine running.
The detected voltage is 14.33 volts indicating that the alternator is working without problems.
I decline any responsibility for any damage to people, animals and things that may occur to anyone wishing to imitate the procedure illustrated in the video which is for entertainment purposes only.